Heuksando, off the coast of Jeollanam-do, has long been a mysterious island people dreamed of visiting once in their lifetime– just like Ulleundo. And soon, with a new airport under construction, that dream will be even closer. Let’s go to this Gorgeous Island and iconic food would be followed. ( you could not able to imagine!)
🚤 Easier Than Ever to Visit Easier
Today, four high-speed ferries run daily between Mokpo and Heuksando, taking only two hours. What was once a distant, wave-tossed island is now a comfortable weekend getaway. The whale-shaped passenger terminal rebuilt in 2016 greets travelers with modern style and ocean views.
Heuksan-myeon actually includes over 100 islands– among them Hondo, Gageodo, and Manjaedo. Most travelers combine Hongdo + Heuksando in one trip, as they’re close enough for a perfect two-day island escape.
🌅 Why It’s Called the “Black Mountain“
From afar, Heukando looks like a dark mountain rising from the sea. The evergreen forests covering its slopes–and the western sunshining behind it — make the island glow almost black. It’s easy to imagine ancient sailors naming it Heuksan, “Black Mountain,” at first sight, as waves shimmered and seabirds circled above in golden light.
🏝️ How to Explore Smart
Heuksando’s 25 km coastal road circles the island, passing viewpoints, beaches, and fishing villages. Since the island is steep, most people take a bus tour or taxi, especially on weekends when it’s busy. Watching the ships that once embarked from here often inspires travelers to reflect deeply on the journeys of their own lives.
If you want more freedom, take a two-step approach:
- First trip — join a bus tour to learn the routes and best sports.
- Second trip — explore slowly by public bus, on foot, or by bicycle.
Cycling along the winding cliffs clockwise is recommended– counterclockwise might test your stamina on the Twelve Turns Road! –Especially on windy days.
🐟 Tatste of the Island: Fresh Skate (Hongeo)
Heuksando is famous for hong-eo, Korea’s lengendary fermented skate. Local fishers still use the traditional junak (longline) method, recognized as a National Important Fishery Heritage. Around Ye-ri Harbor, you can taste it any way you like — aged, lightly fermented, or completely fresh.
One shop owner told me with a smile, “The female skate is tastier because she’s bigger– over 8 kilos means top grade.”
⛺ Voluntary Exile by the Sea
Baenanggimi Beach is a dreamy place for campers, with pine trees and ocean views. But since Heuksando belongs to Dadohaehaesang National Park, camping is allowed only from June to September. Even outside that window, the rangers are famously kind– once, they even gave me a ride back to town after a camping mistake.
🕍 History and Peace at Exile Culture Park
In Sari Village, the Exile Culture Park tells the story of more than 130 people banished here from the Goryeo and Joseon eras, including scholar Jeong Yak-jeon, who wrote The Book of Fish. Visitors can even stay overnight to experience “voluntary exile.” It’s a quiet, poetic reminder that solitude can be a kind of freedom.
📍 Must-See spot
- Sangraksan Observatory – the island’s best photo spot overlooking Ye-ri Harbor.
- Jido Rock & Gummunyeo – sea-eroded rocks shaped like Korea itself.
- Seven Brothers Rocks – tiny islets born from an old legend.
- Migratory Bird Museum – over 800 bird specimens and 420 species observed.
Heukando isn’t just just a destination–it’s an escape.
From the scent of pine and sea to the taste of fresh hong-eo, it’s where history, nature, and peace meet in perfect balance.
By Min-soo Kim (Avolta) | Text and Photos by Min-soo Kim | Edited by Seo-hee Kwak | Source: Travie Magazine (https://www.travie.com) | May 27, 2024
